The Real Mystery of Marfa, TX
The town’s official slogan is "Tough to get to. Tougher to explain. But once you get here, you get it.”
I’m not sure that last part’s really true for me.
For more than 135 years, Marfa has been known for mysterious lights that sometimes appear off in the distance and remain unexplained today. The first time I came here I saw something that I wrote off as car headlights. But this time I went out on the night of the eclipse, and a new moon, and I saw many more lights in many different areas, so I don’t discount them anymore.
In more recent history, Marfa became known for movie magic. When the epic “Giant” was filmed here in 1956 they built a huge mansion on the set that was a false front. A house with no rooms, just a facade. And I think a lot of what people think Marfa is today is still a facade.
The art world took note of this town when Donald Judd moved here in the 70s. Decades after his death he’s making headlines again today thanks to Kim Kardashian. The former military base he bought to house his large-scale minimalist art is literally out the back door of my Airbnb here. I see his outdoor installation every time I walk around the block. But I don’t “get it” as art.
The most Instagram-famous art installation “Prada Marfa” isn’t even in Marfa. It’s actually about 30 miles west in the town of Valentine. Which is about as big as my hometown of Goodwill, Louisiana. Its only business is a bar that’s open whenever they decide to put an old car door up by the highway.
Back in Marfa, which has just one blinking traffic light, you can see Andy Warhol’s take on The Last Supper and eat at restaurants Cochineal and Convenience West which were named semifinalists for the 2024 James Beard Awards. Convenience is delicious BBQ, only available on Friday and Saturday. I’d heard it was one of those places you have to line up early for, but I pulled up 10 minutes before opening and was 5th in line. Cochineal is a fancier, make-a-reservation $$$ kind of place, but oh…the date pudding dessert was divine.
It’s all just so random. You never know when places will be open or when they’ll be happening. One Friday night The Pony bar is packed, live bands are playing, and dancers are two-stepping around dogs. The next Friday, the bar is nearly empty - no music, no crowd, no doggos.
I will say I’m glad I had three weeks here this time to seek out these experiences. You can miss a lot if you’re only a weekend visitor. The little 1920s house I stayed in was perfect. My cat Bijou and I both loved bird-watching on the screened-in front porch.
And I enjoyed meeting fellow travelers around town from Germany, Switzerland, New Zealand, L.A., and Oregon.
Why do they come from so far to the middle of Far West Texas?
I think it’s because we all want the mystery of desert lights. The magic of movies. The mystique of the Wild West.
And the primary source of business for this town is to provide that facade, along with fine dining, fine art, and $450 boutique blue jeans.
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